In the ravines of Chambal in Madhya Pradesh, lies Bateshwar, a complex of 200 ancient temples. For centuries they lay in ruins, swallowed by forest. Until about 20 years ago, when, K.K. Muhammed, an archaeologist with the Archaeological Survey of India, teamed up with Nirbhay Singh Gujjar, one of Chambal’s most feared dacoits, to bring the heritage site back to life. This is the story of an unusual partnership that saved Bateshwar.