Havelis of Vadnagar

Turn southwards at Ram Mandir and walk for about 50 m to reach Pattharwali Haveli.

As you walk through the historic streets of Vadnagar, some houses immediately catch your eye. Taller, more ornate, and richly detailed mansions, they are the Havelis of Vadnagar. The word Haveli comes from the Arabic ‘Hawali’, meaning a private, enclosed space.

One such example that you see before you is the Pattharvali Haveli, a 19th-century mansion that once belonged to a wealthy family. Right beside it stands another beautiful wooden Haveli. Built on large plots, these homes were designed for joint families, where multiple generations lived together under one roof. And yet, they rarely felt crowded.

The heart of every Haveli was its central courtyard, which stood open to the sky. It was here that the large family gathered to discuss family affairs, meet other people and celebrate festivals. In Vadnagar’s hot and dry climate, the courtyard worked as a natural cooling system. Warm air would rise and escape, while cooler air circulated through the surrounding rooms. Thick lime-plastered walls and wooden structures kept the interiors comfortable, even in peak summer.

Do spend some time appreciating the artistry on the façades. Those projecting balconies supported by intricately carved brackets are called jharokhas. The delicately carved wooden screens are called jaalis, and provide light and ventilation. And yet, they ensure privacy for people inside. The carvings range from floral and geometric patterns to depictions of animals and mythological scenes. Lord Krishna’s stories are a popular theme.

Many of Vadnagar’s Havelis date to the late 18th and 19th centuries, which was a period of prosperity under regional rulers. Some have weathered over time, their paint fading and woodwork wearing down. Others have found new life. The Pattharvali Haveli, for instance, was donated by the family of a prominent industrialist and social reformer, Seth Bhogilal Chaukulal, and now serves the town as a public library.